Jimmy on April 8th, 2010

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Bon Appétit Series Background Recap: I was tired of reading the magazine each month, saying, “Oh that looks great, I’ll make that”, then the magazine ends up in the cupboard or trash, never to been seen again. Never more! Now I’m holding myself publicly accountable; each month I will cook at least one recipe from Bon Appétit and post it on here.

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The small gap between dreamy, pillow-like gnocchi with a creamy interior and lump, dense, potato bombs is the epitome of the dichotomy between simplicity and perfection that exists in Italian cooking. Traditional gnocchi are potato and flour, shaped into a dumpling, and boiled. Definitely sounds easy.

But just like pasta, gnocchi is an Italian art form, a deliberate process all the way through. It’s easy to make bad risotto. It’s even easier to make crappy gnocchi. My suggestions for making decent gnocchi are the same as I would offer for risotto – respect the process. Keep the potato mixture light and don’t overwork it. Add flour until the dough is that perfect balance of workable and sticky. Take great care to not under or over cook the gnocchi. And keep at it. Similar to pizza dough, pasta, or risotto, I really think an experienced hand makes a difference, and I need much more gnocchi experience. I think my next purchase will be a ricer to get even lighter potatoes. Have you tried making gnocchi? Any good tips you’ve accumulated along the way?

I started by cooking my russets in an oven, then I scooped out the flesh and pushed it through the food mill attachment of my food processor. Avoid gummy potatoes (read: NO stand mixer) at all costs. Then gently mix in the potato with the egg and flour using an fork.

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After kneading the dough for as little time as possible, I started forming my gnocchi. I highly recommend purchasing a dough scraper for this part if you don’t have one. You can buy a board to form the impressions on each gnocchi, or just use a fork like I did.

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An industrial baking sheet really comes in handy sometimes, even though this guy doesn’t fit in my oven. It’s perfect for holding dozens of dumplings.

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Prior to forming the gnocchi, I made the mushroom ragu, sans the pork because of a particular vegetarian. The sauce would have been much more savory and balanced with the slow simmered pork, but the addition of the porcini and crimini mushrooms made it a nice variation from a simple marinara.

I plated it with an obligatory sprinkle of parmigiano-reggiano, from @timthecheeseman, of course.

The gnocchi? Not the best ever. More on the dense side than the mushy side. I need a lighter dough, more uniform sized gnocchi (for even cooking), and to probably boil them even less than I did.

Enjoyably, each moment spent in the kitchen is an education, every new experiment an edible work in progress.

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  • http://www.foodiebuddha.com FoodieBuddha

    is there anything you can’t do? seriously

  • http://Takethoufood.com Sean

    The search for perfection and that drive to constantly improve are couple of many reasons I enjoy cooking.

    Keep it up Jimmy! You’re on your way to becoming a world class chef :)

  • http://troublewithtoast.wordpress.com/ bettyjoan

    I have mastered risotto, but perfect gnocchi still evades me. Did you roll the dough into long “snakes” and then cut them to form? How long did the whole process take you, start to finish (not counting the making of the ragu)? I think what keeps me from practicing is the time factor of this dish. That ragu looks delicious!

  • http://sallydoinglaundry.blogspot.com Sally

    I made gnocchi from the French Laundry cookbook and while I have little experience eating gnocchi, those at the table who were experienced liked it very much. They seemed light enough to me. Anyway the difference in method that I see is that you use a ricer or food mill to put your 2 lbs hot potatoes onto your work surface, make a well, then add 1/2 c flour, then 3 eggs yolks and another 1/2 c flour and salt. Then he says to mix it all together by chopping with a bench scraper and it should be done in 15-30 secs. The dough should be homogenous and barely sticky on the outside. Then you proceed with dividing, rolling to snakes and scoring. He says they are cooked the minute they float to the surface.

    I love your blog! Hope this was helpful

  • Jimmy

    Betty Joan – yes, I did form them into the snakes and cut them with the dough scraper. Not counting the ragu, the whole process was probably 1.5 hours, though up to 1 hour of that was cooking the potatoes, which wasn’t really active time. It was very easy, I just think there’s something about working with dough and flour just seems like it’s more a of pain. Not counting the time to cook the potato, it’s probably quicker than making risotto.

    Sally – thanks for the tips, I think I need to be more gentle with the dough. I probably over worked it. Another reading mentioned boiling the potatoes vs baking. I definitely need to keep a closer eye on the cook time too. I probably overcooked some gnocchi by 30-90 seconds.

    Thanks for the comments,

    Jimmy