Bocado

I’m loving the restaurant boom on the Westside. With the limited time I have and constant travel due to a new job, the frequency of my posts has taken a major hit, and if it weren’t for the new bevy of restaurants that are geographically close to my home, I don’t think I’d ever get to dine at the spots all the cool kids are hitting up.

Bocado, directly across the street from the new 5 Seasons and Hop City Beer & Wine, has only been open a couple of months, but has already earned a fair amount of praise and coverage (see links to other posts at the end of mine). I went late night the first week or so they were open, Katie and I just sat at the bar. The place was almost totally empty, save for Greg Best of Holeman & Finch, who was chowing on a burger a few seats down from us, talking to chef Todd Ginsberg (formerly of Trois) and young owner Brian Lewis.

We asked if it was too late to order food, and the bartender said no it was definitely not too late, we could order whatever we like, and he said it in such a friendly manner that I believed it. Ever heard restaurant staff tell you it’s ok to order food late at night, but you know you just pissed off everyone in the kitchen who was cleaning up their station, and the waiter kinda wants you to know it?

On this first visit we just had a few drinks and shared the gnocchi with dinosaur (aka lacinato) kale. The buttery sauce and kale was awesome, but the gnocchi were mushy, too similar to mashed potatoes for me, but I’m a bit snobby about gnocchi. Actually, many times I don’t order it because I don’t want to be disappointed. Crab cakes share the same fate with me.

So I was a little bummed out, but hey, they just opened, and is often the case, it seems like Bocado just needed some time to hit their stride. I’ve definitely been getting better about waiting to post on recently opened restaurants.

I’ve heard a lot of positive comments about Bocado in the last few weeks (a friend I respect greatly emailed me to tell me about the amazing gnocchi, not knowing about my previous experience), and my last visit with Decatur Wine and Food Dude for lunch was great.

I started with the autumn soup with Italian sausage and lentils. On a brisk day, this stuff is incredible. The broth was rich, the carrots had a slight char to them, the kale (hot ingredient of winter 2009?) was earthy and wonderful, the croutons were still crunchy, warm, and garlicky, and the torn pieces of Italian sausage out of the casing was a nice rustic touch. (I’ve since stolen that misshaped Italian sausage out of the casing preparation, btw).

I went with the crowd pleaser for my sandwich – fried green tomato, pimiento cheese, roasted poblano, and bacon on toasted, delicious bread. It’s as good as it sounds, and as good as everyone else has said it is.

Dude was more adventurous (and feeling like he needed some veggie balance after a weekend of rich cassoulet) so he went with the interesting roasted cauliflower with Chinese & Thai eggplant sandwich. With the addition of cilantro and carrots, he said it was reminiscent of banh mi, and though I don’t want to put words in his mouth, I got the impression it was very good. At $6.75, it seems like a deal.

I love restaurants where I have a hard time figuring out what I want to eat, and good for them, cause it keeps me coming back. Bocado seems to shine at lunch, where there are still four other sandwiches I am eager to try, but the positive dinner reports are great to hear, so I look forward to giving that another go.

I’m not a huge fan of the space, it’s a little cold to me, and Bocado doesn’t have the feel of a late night hangout to me (that I wish it could be), but it’s another welcome addition to the neighborhood, and I’m glad to hear very good things from others, especially in such tough times.

For more info on Bocado, read Besha Rodell’s recent article for Creative Loafing. Along with Bill Addison of Atlanta Magazine, I think she provides the most comprehensive and succinct reviews in Atlanta; her writing and palate seems to really jive with what I like.

Bocado Posts

Amy on Food
Blissful Glutton
Foodie Buddha
AJC (MFG)
Creative Loafing (Besha)
The Food Abides