Bone Garden Cantina

October 5, 2009 · 8 comments

in atlanta, dining out

IMG_5559

There is an abundance of “Mexican” food around Atlanta, but to me the genre gets broken up into three categories: theme park Mexican, Tex-Mex, and authentic Mexican.

Theme Park Mexican is the majority of what I see in Atlanta. Last night I went to La Parilla on Howell Mill and this restaurant would qualify for this category. Huge drinks, sombreros, and quirky names are the norm. If you go to La Parilla’s menu online and click on the section for “Traditional Mexican Dishes” you may notice that they display a photo of a hamburger. Our waitress called us “amigos” with a painted-on smile at least a dozen times, and somehow it came across in a way as if she thought her manager was listening somewhere nearby.

My definition of Tex-Mex is anywhere that successfully specializes in the dishes of Mexican origin, popularized in America. These dishes may utilize Mexican ingredients and flavors, but the dish as we know it here, may not actually be eaten in Mexico. A sizzling plate of fajitas comes to mind. Nuevo Laredo is Tex-Mex to me, even though they foray into mole, barbacoa, and simple carnes asadas. But calling them Tex-Mex isn’t a dirty word to me, Tex-Mex can be done brilliantly, as anyone who has been to San Antonio can attest.

Authentic Mexican be found in the carnicerias on Buford Highway. The primary offering being small, inexpensive tacos with your choice of cabeza, lengua, al pastor, chorizo, barbacoa, or some other meat offering, and a tiny amount of onion and cilantro. You may get a molcajete set on your table filled with a variety of thin red/green salsas or pico de gallo. Chips and salsa are generally not provided for free, if offered at all. 40 oz magaritas are nowhere in sight.

Sorry for the essay on this, but when I went to Bone Garden Cantina on the Westside for the first time, I noticed that on their list of “rules” ala Vortex (same owner) they state, “We do not serve ‘Americanized’ Mexican food, so if that’s what you’re looking for you are in the wrong place.”

With that, I set off to decide on which category I’d place them based on my two meals.

Thin and hot chips were delivered quickly on both occasions, served with a fairly good salsa, which is a bit thicker and flavorful than most water like salsa served at the theme parks. It reminded me of a cilantro-light version of the Nuevo salsa.

IMG_6509

There’s lots of interesting paintings around the room, which was absolutely packed when I went there on a Friday afternoon. On my other visit it was still fairly busy, especially considering the industrial location on Ellsworth.

I thought the way the light shone on the devil’s head in this photo was kind of interesting.

IMG_5552

On my first visit I got a pork tamale, as well as chicken and beef tongue tacos on corn tortillas.  These tacos were awful. The meat was flavorless, but the sauces were even worse. The filling was too plentiful, making it difficult to eat, and the whole thing turned into a soggy and bland mess. The tamale was formed appropriately, but the meat also lacked any discernable flavor. Despite the menu’s indication that you should order the tamales before they run out, based on this experience, I don’t really think you’re going to have a problem finding one.

IMG_5555

Katie got a veggie taco and empanada. I didn’t taste her food, but she wasn’t a fan either.

IMG_5557

You can see how soggy the tortillas became after just a few minutes.

IMG_5558

That first visit was probably two months ago, and I held back on the post because I felt I really needed a second visit before I posted so negatively. Also, I had received a tip that the flour tortillas were the way to go.

On the next visit I got a chicharrones taco on flour tortilla with rice and beans. This taco isn’t listed under the regular taco section on the menu and is easily missed. This time the filling size was much more appropriate, the meat was less soggy, and the amount of salsa had thankfully been significantly cut back and actually had a sharp green salsa flavor. The fried pork skin wasn’t stellar, but a few pieces were appropriately crunchy and flavorful. I also liked the charred tortilla and it held up just fine.

IMG_6510

I also got the chorizo enchilada in guajillo chili sauce, which tastes exactly like a red chile sauce I recently made which I’d recommend. The sauce was delicious and the chorizo was as greasy and satisfying as it should be. This was my favorite dish.

IMG_6511

My dining companion on this occasion had a shredded chicken taco, and while I don’t remember his thoughts on this, I wanted to put the picture on display to show how much more in balance the ingredients are compared to the first visit.

IMG_6512

He also had the shrimp enchilada, which he seemed to like well enough, though he did comment on the sauce being a little thick and gloppy.

IMG_6513

My second visit was significantly better than my first, decent enough to the point where I’d go back, especially considering how close it is to my place. I’m not going to confirm the “authentic Mexican” claim on their rules, though I wouldn’t relegate them to the theme park status either.

That leaves them in my Tex-Mex category, which as I’ve mentioned, isn’t a bad place to be. But to be candid, I’m only going to go to Bone Garden when Nuevo is packed, because Nuevo does this genre better.

Bone Garden Cantina on Urbanspoon

  • http://www.foodiebuddha.com/ FoodieBuddha

    nicely scribed my good man…

  • http://takethoufood.com Sean

    Haha “theme park Mexican”…

    Good to hear the second experience was much better. Have you been to the taco truck in Marietta? I think that’s my favorite Mexican place in Atlanta that’s not home cooked.

  • http://debtmanagementwire.com/ DM

    Haha “theme park Mexican”…

    Good to hear the second experience was much better. Have you been to the taco truck in Marietta? I think that’s my favorite Mexican place in Atlanta that’s not home cooked.

  • Jimmy

    Sean – Actually I have not, though it sounds like I need to get up there.

    My wishlist is quite long…but thanks for mentioning it so I can bump it up the list.

  • http://www.decaturwineandfooddude.com Dennis

    Nice write up J.
    However, your choice for lunch dining companions remains questionable.
    I wouldn’t trust anything that knucklehead said.

  • http://www.suburbanwino.com Joe

    Jimmy, how was everything priced compared to a Buford Hwy. taqueria? I always have this hunch that these popular places like Nuevo, Taqueria del Sol, etc. do inferior food at an inflated price. Give me an “El Rey del Taco” cabeza, stat!

  • http://eatitatlanta.com jimmy

    Joe –

    Bone Garden isn’t expensive, but it’s definitely a few bucks more than a place like El Rey Del Taco, I wouldn’t categorize them the same.

    Taqueria del Sol, Prickly Pear, Verde could be put into the “designer taco” Mexican category, maybe that could be the 4th category. These places are as much about comfortable/trendy surroundings and creative ingredients, as they are about “Mexican” food.

    I see some separation from Bone Garden and the designer taco places, though I definitely wouldn’t lump them in with Buford Highway.

    But hell, I have no authority to be the arbiter of these kinds of categorizations!

  • http://www.suburbanwino.com Joe

    Too late. You’ve officially been tagged “Taco Tsar”

Previous post:

Next post: