After visiting both of owner Brian Lewis’ restaurant in one week, I figured I would post them together. They are both well established at this point, though both STG Trattoria and Bocado have seen recent change. STG is now serving brunch, and Chef Todd Ginsberg left Bocado to join up with the Johnson’s of West Egg to open a progressive Jewish deli called The General Muir, where he will have a piece of the proverbial matzah. Of The General Muir, I’ve heard reference to similarities to Mile End in Brooklyn. No complaints here.
So what’s changed at Bocado since Ginsberg’s departure a week ago? Not much, at a glance. The menu format and selection is much the same. Even the website still features Ginsberg.
In the past, I often saw Chef walking around, obviously not cooking, but often expediting and even delivered plates to tables, certainly with a watchful eye. I’m not sure if this loss can be attributed, or if it was new-found freedom from a sous, but I found a couple dishes, while definitely in the style of the Bocado we know, were either sloppily constructed or ill conceived.
Perhaps the deviled eggs with anchovy have made a prior appearance, but I found the aromatic and dominating fish to be distracting. A crunchy salad, teeming with fresh beets, beans, frisee, radish, beans, a single carrot slice (for good measure?), and rabbit jerky bits was simply too cluttered. Subtract at least two elements and you’re in business.
A pan crisped fish atop a stew like broth with sliced potatoes, while slipshod in appearance, tasted great at first, but only holds out for a minute or so before becoming soggy and sad.
One thing hasn’t changed one smidgen – the burger is as well devised and executed as ever. Dang.
Cocktails continue to shine.
Yeah, I sound like a dick, but I have high expectations of Bocado. My previous few meals were outstanding.
Onward – STG. We ordered a bunch of pizzas. They are a pretty good size, and priced fair too, between $10-13. This one had kale and egg and sausage. In general, I found the toppings to be excellent. The dough does a commendable job; thin, but not falling apart under the weight of its houseguests. The nicely blistered and scarred disc explodes a little too thick on the edge for my picky as hell pizza tastes, and I wonder how long they ferment, but it’s a darn solid option.
Sausage, pickled cherry peppers, basil
A skillet of bolognese, white beans, topped with eggs and arugula. Aww man, this dish speaks to me. Who doesn’t love a personal skillet for breakfast? It’s not too huge, but so satisfying. Lasagna bolognese for breakfast may be my favorite jam ever, but this comes close. Damn. They should do lasagna for breakfast. No one does that. Get on that.
My duck comes in a similar presentation, but neither the potatoes or the (dry) duck were appropriately crisped to deliver an epic hash. It really needed salt too, but the tables weren’t offering any help.
When salt isn’t set out I feel like a jerk asking for it. So I just blog about it, heyoooo!