Porchetta. Pasta. Duck. Beans. Seamless Ravioli.

November 1, 2012 · 2 comments

in atlanta, cooking at Home, wine at home

riverview farms

Dude and I cooked a meal. I bought a pork shoulder and whole belly from Riverview Farms. Above, in perhaps my manliest photo ever (note – blow torch, chef’s knife, hack saw, and beer bottle), I butchered the shoulder. He/she will never dance again. Dude’s kids were appalled.

Taking a note from Ideas in Food, which I tend to do, I tried their seamless ravioli. Neat. It has potential, but I think they would be better fried instead of boiled. I buried egg yolks and whipped ricotta in semolina flour for three days, removed, boiled, served with warm mushroom salad with duck fat and verjus dressing, the latter purchased at Star Provisions.


Handmade ravioli with pumpkin, mascarpone, duck confit. Sauced with cherry gastrique sage brown butter.


Hank’s duck ragu with handmade pappardelle, mascarpone quenelles. Make this ragu and freeze some. Fantastic.

pasta, duck sugo

Belly wrapped around shoulder porchetta. I loosely followed a few recipes. I brined the shoulder and lightly cured the belly overnight. Roasted slow for hours, then blasted in a convection oven. The belly never got tender enough though, and was too thick and chewy. But the fat sauna around the perfectly cooked shoulder worked to great effect. Need to work on the method here, but I think it depends on the cuts and the size of the cuts used.


Not photographed – Rancho Gordo borlotti beans, cooked with a few Caw Caw pig’s feet. If you have not cooked a high quality heirloom bean, I recommend you order some or buy some at Star Provisions or wherever. It’s an entirely different legume. The gravy/potlikker alone is worth the effort.

barolo Suchots

Wine. The Arnoux was very good but got straight served by the 68 Monfortino. Sucks when one of my nicest bottles ($200) gets shown the door.

And my friend Michael brought his Volnay. I mean his Volnay. His name is on the bottle. That’s straight Burgundy pimp.

This meal was a lot of work, but worth it. Cooking is great. Learning and cooking better. Drinking great wine brings it home.


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  • martha

    What flour(s) did you use for the pappardelle? I’ve just started making pasta and what I’ve been using (1000% semolina) seems too coarse, almost like grits.

  • Hey Martha – I did use semolina, for the first time in a while. I knead by hand for quite a while, until very smooth. The recipe I used (from the semolina bag) also calls for a good deal of egg, I think. I believe I added some olive oil too. That may help. Mine was definitely fairly smooth though. I think a little coarseness is OK, so that the sauce will stick a bit.

    I also use the Babbo recipe (on their website) for pasta, and have good success there.

    Good luck!


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