Empire State South

September 6, 2010 · 5 comments

in atlanta, dining out, wine in the city

Empire State South

Anyone heard of Empire State South?

Yes, they’ve only been open a week, but I’ve been hearing great things pretty much since day one, so I was excited to get together with a few friends for a long lunch this past Friday. I took a half day off from work just to ensure I had enough time to thoroughly enjoy myself. ;)

We arrived around 11:30, and only a few tables were occupied… that quickly changed. The restaurant was slammed within thirty minutes, but if Hugh was stressed out, his demeanor gave no indication. Chef Acheson knew a couple of people at my table, so he came by and talked about how things were going, and about the restaurant in general, a glimpse I enjoyed. While ESS can be somewhat classified as a “meat and three”, Hugh discussed how one goal for the food was to be light enough for the local day-time clientele to be able to eat and go back to work without wanting to take a nap at their desk (which I call the “Carver’s effect”).

I found this goal to be true, the vegetables in particular are prepared in a manner which I find to be very similar to Dynamic Dish. Snappy, light, delicious, with flavors layered beautifully. Meat portions are moderate to small, but won’t leave you waddling out.

But on top of the simple comfort of the food, there is a touch of elegance in each dish, in the service, and in one of my favorite areas – the wine list. With so many European (Burgundy!) and other affordable, delightful options, I was a happy guy. I wasn’t aware that Hugh is quite the wine buff, and I couldn’t hide my ear to ear grin when he put the restaurant this way to me, “We want a place where you can have Potlikker in one hand, and a glass of Burgundy in another”.

You may be able to find some things to nit pick about, but I’m not going to do that because my experience from start to finish was exceptional. To me, the food is not about sous vide, trendy offal, or showing off. It’s feel good food, communal and wholly Southern, and Hugh is continuing his active redefinition of what “soul food” really should be.

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Each of our party of four started with a salad, including the crispy okra salad with beans, bacon, and a buttermilk dressing. Wow.

Empire State South

The “super food” salad includes hanger steak, tomatoes, beans, farro, lettuces, and green beans. This could easily be a whole meal.

Empire State South

I ordered the chopped salad, a crunchy medley of okra, radish, corn, green beans, lettuce, etc. Texture and summer greatness.

Empire State South

After eating our entree sized salads, we moved onto the actual mains, where diners are instructed to pick a protein then their selection of two sides. My friend Don picked the catfish (unfortunately out of focus), but at least this photo highlights the very interesting minted yogurt green beans and warm cucumbers. I love the frosted hue the yogurt gives to the beans.

Empire State South

My selection was the smothered pork chop with peppers, radish, and a warm from the oven cheese biscuit. Isn’t it amazing how much of a difference hot bread can make?

Empire State South

Another friend ordered the popular meatloaf sandwich on Holeman & Finch bread.

Empire State South

Monster slab of cake for dessert? Yes, please.

Empire State South

We did bring a bit of our own wine…I thought this ’97 Chezeaux was feminine and beautiful. As my friend Dennis says, “All roads lead to Burgundy”.

Want to get in on the wine action? Check out the upcoming LaTour wine dinner at Empire State South.

Empire State South

Empire State South on Urbanspoon

  • Don Cornutt

    Jimmie,
    Really nice piece here.
    I loved the place and plan to return.
    Good to see you and share some food/wine.

  • http://www.decaturwineandfooddude.com Dennis

    Wow.
    Terrific pics Jimmy.
    Really nice work.
    Bummed I missed you guys for this lunch.

    All roads do indeed lead to Burgundy.
    I think I stole that line from Don C.
    Or Big Toe.

    Cheers.

  • Jimmy

    Thanks Dennis, you were missed!

  • http://www.suburbanwino.com suburbanwino

    i would eat that.

  • Kristina

    “…light enough for the local day-time clientele to be able to eat and go back to work without wanting to take a nap at their desk (which I call the ‘Carver’s effect’)”

    Ha! You could not be more right. When my co-workers and I consider Carver’s for lunch, we always have to talk out what’s going on for the rest of the day and agree that we can afford the wasted afternoon. But man. It’s so worth it.

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