Pizzeria Fortunato

As mentioned yesterday in my latest pizza post, today’s post is on Pizzeria Fortunato. It was just a few weeks ago that I heard of this place, and it has only been around for less than a year. However, this short amount of time was all it took to earn the Critic’s Choice in the Creative Loafing Best of Atlanta. 

I’ve been eating my way into the depths of fine pizza creation and dining lately, and PZ is on my side of town (Westside, throw it up!!!), so I had to check this place out ASAP. 

Right up front, I have to say that after reading the menu, I was expecting something a little different (see Una Pizza Napoletana and Jeff Varasano).  Expectations can be funny though…something different isn’t always necessarily bad, and it’s great to add to your food repertoire. 

The pizza menu has all of the traditional pies, but they also offer some interesting ‘za, which includes a Greek Pie and an Eggplant Parmesan version, which I must go back to try some time. 

But what really got me was front and center. Top of the menu, appetizer #1. Pan Fried Provolone. 

I have never heard of this dish, and I couldn’t really picture what I thought this would be. Something about those three little words grabbed me and I was hooked. So Sunday evening we were off and running….

A big old glass of Peroni somehow seemed appropriate. 

They quickly brought out a few garlic/cheese rounds for us. An amuse bouche, if you will. They were very good. 

Checking out the menu. We went with the pan fried provolone and the Neapolitan Cheese, 20″ jumbo size. Keeping it “mad real”. You know, for kids!

Next time I will try a pie with fun toppings. 

After I had devoured the garlic bread and had pushed my hunger out of my mind, all of the sudden, our waitress appeared from around the corner, with what sounded like a tray of fajitas heading our way. Then I see she has a small cast iron skillet, filled with bubbling and spitting cheese. It was an awesomely intimidating presentation. The dish contained a roughly 1 inch thick layer of cheese, topped with tons of hot oil, basil, and quite a bit of red pepper. 

We almost let it cool enough, and dug in. This was better than I could have expected. It was soft and manageable on the inside, and the edges were fried to the inside of the skillet. The cheese was plentiful (this could be an appetizer for 4 people), it was stringy, chewy, and rich, had that fantastic sharp yet somehow subtle provolone taste, and the herbs and red pepper gave it great flavor and what might be too much heat for some people (not me). We had to stop ourselves because we had pizza coming, but I would get this every time. This is my new Italian equivalent of ordering cheese dip at Mexican restaurants. 

So at this point I was pretty much stuffed, but we had pizza coming. The large (they weren’t kidding) pizza came out and they had to set it up on a tableside stand. It wasn’t quite what I was expecting (more New York style than Naples) but it was very good. Not superb, but I still don’t think that Atlanta has any pizza places where I’d be apt to saying “you HAVE to try this pizza”. So I am not knocking this pie at all: it was very thin at the bottom and I couldn’t taste the dough much, but it was thick enough to taste it near the top and it had noticeable flavor and was good and chewy. Also, the sauce was definitely good – sharp and tasty, and I am a big fan of the sauce. 

The slices were huge, so we only ate three of them. Today is day #2 of leftovers and I just finished my last piece. It reheated fantastically. 

I was disgustingly full and happy at this point, but they talked me into getting a cannoli to go. And when I say talked me into it, I mean they said “Would you like a cannoli for dessert?”, and I said, “uhhhh, I dunno”, and she replied “We could make it to go”.  So yeah, that’s all it takes. 

The cannoli definitely met expectations, but was nothing out of the ordinary.  It didn’t taste prefilled and they had the chocolate chips on one end and the crushed pistachio on the other end, which is always a great mix. I recommend trying one if you never have. Paolo’s in Va-Highlands also has great cannolis. 

I always feel like I need to summarize, so to that end: The pizza was definitely above average – good to very good, but I am still on the search for the best pizza in Atlanta. The cannoli was totally acceptable and you should try it. The patio seating is pleasant and comfortable so check it out while it is still nice outside in Atlanta. It had a “fun” environment if that makes sense (I read they are or have made a bocce ball court). The wait staff was very friendly. BUT, for the love of all that is tasty, please go try the fried provolone. And call me up so I can join you.